Green Fashion: Help or Hype?

Green is not merely a color palette in fashion anymore. Like many other industries, it has also begun to “go green” in attempt to become more environmentally friendly. As hybrid cars and organic eating have become more and more popular, the fashion industry has also jumped on the bandwagon in using eco-friendly materials and different means of production. This week University of Southern California’s newspaper, The Daily Trojan, reported on a green fashion show taking place on campus the last Friday in March. This green show promoted designers who have all taken steps in becoming environmentally friendly. In the article JJ Jiang, the president of A.L.I.V.E (Always Living in View of the Environment) who put on the event, stated “The fashion show is a great opportunity to put on an entertaining event and at the same time try to appeal to [different groups] interested in fashion and the environment.” That being said, this week I decided to delve into earth conscious fashion and find out what exactly green clothing means. Although many labels are introducing green lines or clothes that are supposedly less harmful to the environment I was surprised to learn what it takes, or rather how easy it is, to be considered green. Before buying something because it is “green” it is important to understand what this may or may not mean. Furthermore, in realizing the lack of regulation in the green industry, I purpose putting guidelines on what measures must be taken before a company is able to label itself green.

Green can mean many different things depending on the industry. In fashion alone it has many meanings, some more legitimate than others, although all of them are able to call themselves eco-friendly. There is a wide range of materials and types of production that are considered green. For example, the use of un-dyed or naturally dyed organic fabrics reduces the industry’s carbon footprint by not creating harmful waste and byproducts. Also, companies that use wind energy or only use factories with fair wages and humane conditions overseas can be considered green. However, there are also companies that seem to be cheating the system. These players concern seem to be less about the environment and more about the appearance of caring for the earth and the steeper price tag that comes with it. In an article titled Green Fashion: Is It More Than Marketing Hype? it states that some companies take advantage of the lack of regulation. For example, Banana Republic introduced a green line with names such as “Leaf Tee” and “Bamboo Printed Wrap”. These names do indicate eco-friendliness. However, these clothes are not green in the least. So how are they able to call themselves green? The price tag; the tag is made out of recycled paper. Not only are they able to call themselves “green” companies, but they are on the same platform as those that use completely eco-friendly materials or use green production. In the same article by Gloria Sin she explains this is called “greenwashing”, when companies lie about environmental claims. She states, "…marketers often employ tactics that paint products greener than they actually are." This hardly seems fair considering the extent some companies are willing to go in order to help our planet while others are simply cheating. So why do these companies bother at all? Firstly, green clothes equal a higher price. People are generally willing to pay more for something when they feel they are doing it for a purpose or cause. Second, as being green begins to be more popular it is becoming a demand rather than a want from consumers. Finally, although eco-friendly clothes are able to increase the price, it is not profitable for companies in the beginning therefore some cheat for the higher price tag without actually making a big effort to become green. In an article by Amy Lieberman she quotes Leslie Hoffman, director of Earth Pledge, who speaks about the hesitation some clothes companies have about going green. She states, “It [the sustainable transition] takes some effort, and let's assume that time and effort equal money.” Money is at the root of for-profit companies, and the fashion industry is not different. Where companies see time and effort without the reward of increased revenue the earth will continue to suffer. However, if companies can see past the first few years of investment in sustainable resources, it is possible to see a return. In an article published in the UK it states, “Although 57% of UK manufacturers report no measurable return on investment from their green strategies in the past year, over 40% of manufacturers still feel that green initiatives are key to cost reduction strategies in the coming year." It takes patience to see these returns, but in the end it can both reduce a companies cost while simultaneously helping the earth. Some companies, however, only see short term goals and will keep cheating the system, especially because there are no regulations in place.

While it should be up to the company whether they want to go green and help the environment or not, companies should not be able to pretend they are aiding the earth when others are actually earning their green label. Putting a price tag of recycled paper, although better than nothing, is not the same as producing a green product through either the production or the materials. There should be criteria put in place in order to call a company green. Recycled tags, which have little to nothing to do with the actual product, should not count. As long as there are no rules, companies will continue to take advantage of the positive connotations of what it means to be green without actually doing so. On University of Southern California’s campus some of the companies who are actually making a conscious effort to be green were celebrated while also aiding individuals to understand the importance of eco-friendly clothing. These companies’ reputation should not be harmed because of others who are unwilling to change until it is proven economically viable. They are piggybacking on those who are actually making a difference and until regulations are put in place consumers will not know whether they are paying for green clothing or a green price tag.