Weight Dichotomy: Too Fat or Too Thin?

The controversy surrounding weight in the fashion world is on-going, and this week is no different. The issue of “too thin” has been talked about, demonstrated against, and boycotted since fashion’s inception; long before Kate Moss, the famously waifish model, was even born. The debate continues about whether fashion models who are extremely thin portray an unhealthy message to women and young girls around the world. People continually debate the correlation between young girls with eating disorders and the thin models seen in our media. On the opposite side of the coin, a newer debate is arising as to whether featuring overweight models also depicts this same unhealthy message in a different way. In this way it can be debated as to whether portraying and glorifying obese women in the media can also effect girls. Both scenarios sparked much interest in the blogosphere over the past few weeks prompted by two very different incidences. I examined a post by Tracey Lomrantz from Glamour’s fashion blog which responded to a popular MTV reality show titled “The City”. In the particular episode of “The City” the main character’s model friend is criticized severely for being underweight and questions soon arise as to whether she suffers from an eating disorder. The episode featuring Allie, the aforementioned model, gained attention in the blog world this week from people both criticizing and coming to the model’s rescue. In addition, I looked at another post by Amy Odell for New York Magazine’s blog The Cut entitled “Love Is Great, But Still Full of Not-Normal People”. The post responds to a recent magazine cover featuring a nude Beth Ditto, a rocker in the band Gossip, who is unquestionably overweight. These posts examine two distinct problems in the fashion world both of which question whether these differing images should be celebrated on runways and magazines. Both posts illustrate the too thin, too fat dichotomy in an industry full of contradictions. Bellow you can find my responses to both posts as well as on their individual sites.

“Is Allie From "The City" Too Skinny To Model?”
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It is as common to see skinny models strutting down the runway as it is to see animals in the wild. So why is it so unbelievable when one of those skinny models is depicted on a reality TV show? Although the model in question, Allie, is extremely thin so are the majority of models in the industry. This is not to say there is no problem in the industry as a whole, however it is sad when one particular girl becomes the sole victim of the attack. There are many famous models throughout history such as Twiggy, a famous 1960’s super model, and Kate Moss that epitomize the waif look and have been idolized for it. The question one needs to ask themselves is who is responsible for idolizing these images? In large part, we are.

While I recognize the negative impact that extremely thin models may have on women’s body image, it is in large part our own society that keeps these models employed. In one part of your post you touch on what Allie (shown left) says about the industry stating if the industry felt she was too skinny “She’d be losing jobs instead of landing them”. I'm interested to know what you think about that because it seems since she is getting jobs the industry is not concerned; probably because she is no thinner than the rest of the models. If people are really this outraged from seeing a skinny model on a reality show that may or may not have an eating disorder then to those people; don’t watch. Do not buy fashion magazines, go to fashion shows, or buy the designer’s product. It is the consumer who can wield power over what we deem acceptable. Personally, I feel that although some models are very skinny, Allie from “The City” included, it is not for us to say whether or not they have a problem. In a controversial move three years ago Madrid Fashion Week implemented a mandatory BMI of 18 on all models who would walk the runway. Those who had a BMI of less than that were banned from the runway. This had a backlash and did not solve any problems. Designers refused to comply and others felt this was a form of “reverse prejudice”, telling people they must weigh a certain amount. The bottom line is that these rules should not have to be implemented by a large bureaucratic organization, but rather designers and agencies should regulate themselves and look out for their own. Just as being extremely obese is unhealthy and threatens lives, being too thin has many of the same implications, and it is time the industry showed concern for this issue. For consumers, If they feel strongly about underweight models, they should chose action rather than berate a single model in an attempt to change the system.


“Love Is Great, But Still Full of Not-Normal People”
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While underweight models and actresses grace the covers of a plethora of magazines every month, it is less common to see an overweight rock star such as Beth Ditto. However, you have to wonder whether idolizing someone like her, who is obese, is just as, if not more, dangerous than admiring some of the waifish models that stare out from runways and magazine covers. It is an interesting predicament. Katie Grand, the editor of Love states that it is fabulous that Beth Ditto is so comfortable with her body in order to pose nude for the cover and it allows others to see their own imperfections. While I agree with her to a certain extent, I do not think she is a better role model for women than an underweight model. Although, her confidence is great, her body is nothing to be envied. Not because she is unattractive, but because carrying that much weight is unhealthy. As the Guardian’s Jemima Kiss points out there are no other obese women featured in the magazine so as she states, if “the way she looks" (don't mention the "f" word!) is such a positive thing, why aren't there any other podgy people in the magazine?”. I find myself agreeing more with Kiss than Grand on this point. Other obese women are not featured in the magazine because it is not looked at as a positive thing, and that is not a bad thing. How can someone say that because she is comfortable being overweight she is a positive role model?

I am interested to know if you think it hypocritical to praise an obese woman on the cover of a magazine, while criticizing those who are possibly underweight. Should Beth Ditto be praised for being obese? Kate Moss and other models certainly take much criticism for being underweight so what is different about the two? While being both underweight and overweight are dangerous to one’s health, being overweight generally has more complications and risks than being underweight. Either way, both should not be idolized. I find it upsetting that people are so harsh on models that are dangerously thin, while Love magazine seems to be accepting of having women idolize someone who is obese. Although Beth Ditto may be more representative of our society than underweight models, she should be no more of a role model than Kate Moss to young girls.

Cheap Chic: The New Trend for Fashion Designers

Not surprisingly, in this economy almost everyone is out to find a great deal. It is no different in the world of high fashion, which is causing a major transition in which many designers such as Vera Wang, Karl Lagerfield, and Proenza Schouler, just to name a few, are designing for low budget stores like Kohl’s, Target, and H&M. Several of these designers are using their names on clothing lines at a price point well below that of their original high-end fashions. This fairly recent phenomenon has made “cheap chic” clothes and accessories a major trend in the fashion industry. Although it may seem risky for exclusively high-end designers to put their well recognized brand on low-budget lines in fear of becoming de-valued by their high-brow customers, it is also extremely lucrative, and if done correctly, can be avoided. During a time when Sharon Stone paired a Gap turtleneck with a Valentino skirt for the 1996 Academy Awards it seems only natural to blend high fashion with more cost effective clothing. Both designers and low-end stores alike have taken notice and created contracts to capitalize on this modern trend. The newest joint venture, announced this week, is between Target and Alexander McQueen, a prominent designer in the fashion world. Previews of the new line (seen above) emerged this week to great reviews. However, some disagree with this new trend thinking it will only harm the prestige of exclusive designers such as McQueen. Although there is some risk in hurting the their established brands, if done correctly, they are able to produce cheap chic clothes, collect huge revenue, tap into a new market, and over-all have no damage to their high-end line. In order for Alexander McQueen to be successful in this venture with Target, as many have been before him, there are a few things he should be keeping in mind to thrive in both the cheap chic and high fashion worlds.

Although these deals have become very popular and have extended beyond clothes into things such as accessories and home furnishing it is important, as stated above, that they are done correctly. There are a few things to keep in mind when creating a cheap-chic line. For example, designers should have a restricted time limit if they want to keep their original brand untarnished. By having a limited-time offer it creates exclusivity, much the same as price creates exclusivity for their high fashion line. It has been a mistake for designers such as Isaac Mizrahi, who lingered in the low budget world and whose name is now synonymous with Target. Lazaro Hernandez, one of the two designers of Proenza Schouler, made his voice heard on the issue stating that long-term deals between designers and Target can ruin a designer’s name eternally. When speaking of Mizrahi, he went on to say, “When you're there for the long haul, why is anyone going to go to Barneys and buy your clothes when they can get it at Target all the time?” Mizrahi, whose contract with Target ended this year, is now headed to Liz Claiborne in hopes of another successful cheap-chic venture. However, in doing so, it seems highly unlikely that Isaac Mizrahi’s name will ever again equate so synonymously with high fashion after such long stints in lower budget companies. Other mistakes designers have made when undertaking the cheap chic route is not differentiating between their low-end brand and their high fashion merchandise. Differentiation is important so the original customers who are willing to pay big bucks for designer couture are not alienated. After all, why would someone buy the original when it is replicated for a fraction of the cost? This can undermine the designer’s high income consumer. For example, in a blog about Target’s cheap chic lines it states Hayden Harnett created a fifty dollar bag for Target which looked identical to its original, which retails for $198.00. This not only infuriated customers who purchased the expensive bag, but also taints the reputation of the expensive label. Designers who have been most successful keep their cheap line separate from their expensive line by having two completely different stylings, while still stamping their name on both. Proenza Schouler for Target does this by creating entirely dissimilar day wear lines as to “not to turn off those who prefer their Proenza Schouler at Bergdorf.” This is an important distinction in creating a cheap chic line.

If these things are done correctly, especially during the recession, the capital gain for both the stores and the designers are astronomical, all without damaging the original high-end brand. Today more than ever consumers are looking for a bargain and celebrated creators such as Alexander McQueen (pictured right), with his new line named McQ Alexander McQueen for Target, are delivering. The line will launch starting March 4th of this year as the first line in Target’s new project titled Designer Collaborations. This new plan takes prestigious designers and allows them to create an accessible, affordable line for the masses. Most of the pieces for Target are under $100, which is consistent with other designers who create lines for stores in the same price range. So far, it has been a recipe for success. For H&M designer name lines such as Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney, and Roberto Cavalli have sometimes sold out in mere hours, not even lasting in the store for a whole day. As for Target’s recent successes, their Go International program, similar to their newly introduced Designer Collaborations, takes the up-and-comings in the industry, which have included Proenza Schouler, Luella Bartley, and many others and makes over $100 million annually with their limited time offers. It is clear these partnerships are both giving consumers on a budget what they want while simultaneously creating huge revenue for the designer and the store. Not only are these partnerships establishing a new market by enabling price conscious consumers a taste of designer fashion, they are opening up an eventual new market for their high-end lines. The targeted consumer for exclusive high-priced brands is much different than that of the customers of Kohl’s, Target, and H&M. Where the latter consumers are very price conscious and unwilling to spend a lot of money on clothes, the target markets of haute couture have little to no price sensitivity. However, this does not mean that will not change. The cheap chic lines of designers such as McQueen, Lagerfeld, Wang, and others generally target twenty-somethings with modest discretionary income. However, as Anne Metz states while speaking of Target, “… the primary demographic of the GO International line (young, twenty-to-thirty-somethings) will get older, and they'll also get richer. If you tempt them with Target, eventually they'll follow you to Barneys.” The earlier a designer can make a fan of his or her work, even at the low-budget level, the more likely that person will be to continue to purchase the designers clothes when they have the means to afford it. While it is true that some consumers will be content to stay on the cheap chic path, others will certainly be drawn up the price ladder as their income becomes more excessive.

Though some consumers, usually those who are not intended for the cheap chic demographic, are hesitant in supporting high-end designers going the low-budget route it seems clear that if handled well this route can only be positive. Although there have been some designers, such as Isaac Mizrahi, who will most likely be unable to transition back into the high fashion world, most have become more successful and better known due to their lower budget, yet still chic designs. There is no reason to think McQ Alexander McQueen for Target will be any less successful than the designers before him, or any more likely to come out with a tarnished reputation. Nevertheless, in order to follow the successes it is important he follow the formula. Keep the low-end line limited in time and design, and differentiate between the McQ for Target and his original Alexander McQueen line, for which he is known and loved. As for his decision to become the newest designer to take on the low-budget trend, most fashionistas could not be more excited for March 4th to hit so they can snag Alexander McQueen at Target prices.

Following Fashion: Exploring the World of Trends

As a student hoping to find a place in the fashion world after graduation and an avid fashion enthusiast I decided to dedicate my blog to just that topic. My blog will delve into the world of fashion; its current issues, trends, and controversies. In my quest to create a legitimate and credible blog I searched the internet for sources that compliment this quest. I used many search techniques and sifted through a plethora of information to ensure my sources were both credible and informative in the fashion industry. Many of these sources can be found to the right of my blog under the linkroll enabling my readers to access the information themselves. The criteria for which I decided to add certain sites to the linkroll are based on both the Webby and IMSA standards. In searching for these sites I used many resources like search engines, online directories such as the Librarian’s Internet Index, and blog engines. To begin, I added prominent fashion magazine’s websites such as Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, and Style.com, where Vogue resides online. These magazines hold a great reputation for authority and content; both Webby criterion. Furthermore, these magazine’s websites are very visually stimulating, easy to navigate, and function extremely well. All of these standards pertain to the Webby criteria. Secondly, I added well-known shopping websites that are recognized for having the latest trends and celebrity style such as Shopbop. I also added some newspapers’ websites such as The New York Post which have fashion sections that generally have biographies of famous designers and featured stories on the fashion industry. Lastly, I looked at blogs through the blog search engines. I found the most helpful of these engines was Best of Web: Blogs. The blogs in my linkroll have credible writers and go into depth in content and opinions, both of which are important IMSA criterion. One blog titled The Cut is a blog from New York Magazine while others have a large following giving it authority such as WhoWhatWear. With these sources as my guides I aim to create a fashion blog that builds upon what is being said in the fashion world while adding my own opinion on these topics.